Gut Gegen’ is a Gemischter Satz so the constituent varieties … in this case predominantly Gruner and Roter Veltliner, a little Pinot Blanc and a small addition of Gruner Sylvaner … are grown together in the same vineyard, harvested on the same day and co-fermented (natural yeast) in stainless steel. Selection is rigorous and very much helped by what is effectively a late green harvest when Barbara takes a pre harvest for the production of Verjus. Pressing is super gentle, never more than 1 bar and only whole grape pressing, never pre-mashed grapes. After initial fermentation the wine stays on fine lees for a few months before transfer to old Acacia barrels for a further short stay before bottling.
Barbara Ohlzelt Gemischter Satz Gut Gegen Nordwind is a wine that’s speaks very well for itself. A truly lovely and wonderfully inviting nose of dry honey, warm butter and maybe soft, ripe gooseberries gets things off to a flying start. It’s a Gemischter Satz so it’s about place at least as much as it is about fruit, and this particular wines strikes us as being about shape, texture and movement as much as it is about flavour too. The opening ‘baby plumpness’ gives way to a lovely gentle spiciness in the middle whilst a delicious, almost urgent acidity combines with an appetising touch of bitterness at the finish. Thinking about quite decent class white Burgundy seems helpful on the one hand and distracting on the other, the general ‘shape’ is close, but this is very much capable of standing on its own two feet and being judged for what it is without comparison. Its heart is dense and properly sleek with that exciting blend of fruitiness and stoniness that characterises so many genuinely ‘serious’ wines. Attractively undemanding yet at the same time properly smart. Lovely. A great starting point for your Barbara Őhlzelt journey.
Drink with fresh, crushed peas with a suggestion of mint and some ricotta served on toast. Can’t see a nice herb stuffed wild Sea Bass being much of a problem here either!
Please note: All case wine orders can take between 7-10 days for delivery.
Country: Austria
Region: Niederösterreich
Grape: Gruner Veltliner 40%, Roter Veltliner 40%, Pinot Blanc 10%
Volume: 6 x 75cl
ABV: 13%
Vintage: 2023
Suitable for Vegetarians: Yes
Suitable for Vegans: No
